THE ATLANTIC SALMON RESERVE
The Atlantic Salmon Reserve was founded in the year 2003 by Peter C. Power who was appointed “Adviser (Sovetnik) to the Governor for International Tourism” in June, 2007. The ASR is the world's first conservation area for Atlantic Salmon, Sea Trout & Wild Brown Trout and Arctic Char. Fly fishing is available on the Kharlovka, Eastern Litza, Rynda and Zolotaya rivers through the Northern Rivers Company in Russia where the territory is known as: Дом для лосося
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or telephone: +44 (0)1865 883063 KHARLOVKA AND EASTERN LITZA
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The Kharlovka Report: Week 30B – Mystic Litza – Big Trout Kharlovka, ended Saturday 26-Jul-08.
By: Johnny Liverød
Group : Ståle Johansen ( Norway ), Thor Øyvind Hagen ( Norway ), Frank Henning Skaarud ( Norway ), Morten Lafton ( Norway ), Frode Granli ( Norway ) and Johnny Liverød ( Group Leader Norway )
From left Ståle, Thor Øyvind, Frank Henning, Johnny, Igor(chef), Morten and Frode
The journey started with a few logistical headaches, including technical issues with the aircraft from Kristiansand, Frode reached the next aircraft with only 5 minutes to spare and unfortunately Frank Henning and Ståle lost all of their luggage. After a lot of phone calls we located it in Kirkenes. We got Widerø to send it with an other flight company. And a very big thanks to Victor and the rest of his team for getting the luggage in to the Tundra with helicopter only a few days later.
We landed at Litza Mystic some hours later than planned. After we had set up the camp and had a quick info we spread in 3 groups for fishing.
The weather was splendid! It was 24 degrees and the sun was shining! The water temperatures reached 18 degrees which did cause some concern because the weather forecast predicted hot and sunny for the rest of the week. Then suddenly we saw the first fish rising and all thoughts of weather were very quickly forgotten!
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We fished mainly during the nights with very good results from 2 and 6 am. The next day started just as well as the first. It seems that the boys without luggage had now totally forgotten that they were fishing with borrowed equipment from Rynda Camp! A big thank you to Peter Power for kitting these guys out! It is hugely appreciated.
 Thor 2,2 kg taken on goddard’s caddis |
 Frode 2,6. |
The writer had an experience with a small trout which he shall never forget! Just before pulling the small fish towards the net, a massive Pike charged in and attacked the poor trout literally centimetres from my hand! The fly was lost and the Pike with the 300g trout in his mouth decided to play dead and wouldn’t move away! What a stupid Pike I thought! But after netting him he certainly woke up an became very lively once again, albeit it was too late for him!
We enjoyed our next days at the Mystic area with ‘great’ weather, but unfortunately the water temperature shot up to 20 degrees and sadly the fished stopped feeding on the surface. We became quite desperate, to the point when we began to pray for rain!
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On Wednesday, we where picked up by MI-8 and flown to Big trout Kharlovka, when we landed God answered our prayers! The weather switched to icy north-west winds up to 20 m/s which was followed by lots of rain! We had 4 days of Northwest wind and very tough fishing with no rising whatsoever. One tents collapsed becoming completely wrecked by the howling gale force winds! In the morning, it turned out that three other tents had also collapsed!
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Week summary: It was a hard week with warm water and a lot of wind and rain but nevertheless we managed 37 respectable fish over 1 kg, with several personal bests being broken.
A big thanks to Igor our guide and camp chef, who took very good care of us, with great food regardless of how bad the weather was! Thank you! We are all looking forward to returning as soon as possible and the next trip is already booked.
Very Best Wishes from Johnny and the rest of the group.
Trout report for the week beginning 30th June -08.
Week 27
Participants: Gunnar Augland, Svein Schultz, Lars Kalek, Francisco Amador, Peter Wulff, Vegard Veberg (GL).
Sunday June 30th
Transport from Oslo Airport was uneventful. It was a pleasure to meet old and new friends again, and when we met Svein in Kirkenes the group was complete. Arriving at Mystic Pool exactly one year after our great trip last year filled us with excitement. Peter and I remembered the great fishing we had then, while the others mood was fuelled by the stories we told on the way here.
The river was higher than last year, but temperatures were already at 14 C. We saw a few mayflies but nothing like last year, when the currents were filled with heads and tails, while droves of tiny mayflies nearly obscured the water.
When the midsummer sun came around the hill the stories still lingered in the cool misty air and the only witnesses left were some beer cans and an empty bottle of fire-water.
Monday July 1st
After Igor’s excellent scrambled eggs topped with bacon we spread out across the river. The day got warmer and few fish were rising in the uppermost pools. The lower pool produced a lot more surface action from fish in the 1-1,5 kg range. Sure we would have caught bigger specimens if we lobbed streamers and tungsten nymphs in the upper pools, but resisting a rising trout is too hard for most of us. Peter went down to the lake and cleared the inlet of pike!
Looking back I’m slightly ashamed of thinking about the fishing as slow. Last year in Mystic Pool must have spoilt us considerably...
Tuesday July 2nd
Still no proper hatches in Mystic Pool. Even so, last night’s fishing gave some lovely fish up to 3 kg. The river warmed up to 16 C and dropped a good 10 cm since we arrived. We fish both sides and only the lower pool seems to hold rising fish. With a few exceptions (like the one that came after Gunnars muddler like a freight train) they are on the small side.
Wednesday July 3rd
Time to move. I catch a 2 kg fish on a daddy-rubber-legs an hour or so before the helicopter is due. Just in front of the stone where I knew there would be a good fish. After so many attempts it was good to see that he was there. The river was dropping steadily and I wouldn’t be the least surprised if someone told me the big ones were rising in Mystic Pool right after we had left...
In total we caught 42 trout over 1 kg in Mystic Pool, Litza. The biggest weighed in at 3,0 – 3,0 – 3,1 kg. Most of them were caught on assorted dry flies, such as Bruns Caddis, The Hulk, SC, Klinkhammers etc. The fish were not selective, something Svein proved when he caught several on an E. Vulgata emerger.
The helicopter arrived and took us to the new camp, aptly named Wulf’s Lear. The river close to camp looked promising, except for the lack of rising fish. The Kharlovka was warmer than the Litza, at a worrying 17 C.
After camp was set up we spread out. Peter and Gunnar went on a hike upstream towards Big Trout. Lasse and Paco fished close to camp, while Svein and I started working our way towards the two islands.
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It was slow fishing until we fought our way through thick bush to get to the end of the rapids near the isles. Fish were rising left and right, upstream and downstream. The birds were going mad. Meanwhile Lasse and Paco were experiencing absolutely nothing at all further downstream.
I caught four fish between 1,5 and 2 kg in a small riffle. I could see the birds were feeding on something up by the lake. But we never got that far that night. A big trout was rising steadily in the current outside of the outermost island. The riverbank was covered in bush, so I decided against casting at it. It would be near impossible to net while being alone. Svein arrived after a while, and after a few casts he hooked up with it. It was a beautiful Kharlovka trout. Less than 60 cm, and 3,0 kg on the scale. What winter dreams are made of in other words.
Our friends in Big Trout had experienced the mayfly hatch of a lifetime and the fishing to match. After some risky wading involving hand holding and improvised wading staves they managed to cast over towards the other side. Peter managed to hook a huge brown. 5,2 kg and 71 cm. An unbelievable fish, even for these rivers. And he caught it on a size 12 dry... Several fish up to 3,6 kg were also caught by the wading buddies.
Thursday July 4th
After reading the reports Lasse and Paco had moved upstream. Svein, Gunnar and I went up to the outlet of the lake upstream of the isles. As soon as we arrived we could see scores of cruising Kharlovka trout. 5-6 species of mayflies were hatching at the same time! The guys were into fish immediately. As the day progressed it just got better and better, and I feel certain I’m not the only one who will remember that day for as long as I live.
Mid-afternoon the caddis started hatching, and in exactly the same spots where we had caught fish between 2 and 2,5 kg, we started catching bigger fish. Svein caught four fish around 3 kg in quick succession. Gunnar was having constant hook-ups on the other side of the river. I caught my biggest Kola-trout so far, a gorgeous fish at 4,2 kg and 64 cm. The wind changed to a northerly at some point, but we barely noticed.
Stunned by what we had just experienced we turned back to camp. When we were relaxing with a cold beer, thinking it just can’t get any better, Lasse and Paco returned. The river had been good to them too. Lasses fish at 4,4 kg was the obvious talking point. But so were the straightened hooks and the hot pursuits down the rapids.
Friday July 5th
During the night it had gotten a lot colder and the majority of bugs were small rhodani and other Baetis species. Not as many fish were rising on the neck, but in the riffles and small pools downstream several trout were rising. Several fish were landed and several more lost.
Peter had been fishing the lower stretches and things had started happening down there as well. He caught mostly smaller and not as fit fish down there, but there were exceptions up to 3kg. We guessed that the bigger fish would spread downstream from the lake as the hatches started moving downwards.
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Late at night I lobbed a Hulk into the current going by a small island downstream of the two isles. 3,2 kg and 60 cm. We had carried the boat all the way up there, and finally it came to use.
Paco caught several smaller fish in the channels and finished his day with a magnificent 3,5kg Kharlovka trout.
Saturday July 6th
We were due to be picked by the helicopter, and I had a boat upstream. It was freezing outside. I lost one and caught one (3,6 kg) before I had to return with the boat. The fog was lying low and the long wait for the helicopter started. Then, around nine we get the message that we won’t be picked up tonight. The rest of the evening was spent resting, sampling the rest of the vodka and making pasta bolognese, tundra-style.
Sunday July 7th
To make a long story short; we’re picked up, get fed at Rynda and make the plane home. Another amazing week was over.
I will let the numbers speak for themselves. We caught 107 trout over 1kg in Wulff’s Lear. Average weight was 2,3kg.
In total we landed 149 trout over 1kg from both camps. 85 of those were 2+. 18 fish over 3kg, and the three top were at 4,2 – 4,4 – 5,2kg. I’m guessing that 95% of the fish were caught on dries, and that most of the ones from Kharlovka were seen rising.
Back before you know it!
Vegard
Week 26 - Big Trout Kharlovka - Swan Isles Litza, ending 29-Jun-08
In the car to Tommani the mood of the group where swinging. One minute, pure enthusiasm, caused by the sun, 20 degrees and the knowledge of what a normal "first week of the season" can offer dryfly addicts. Next, worried glares at each other, as we passed creeks with high water level, and the occasional pack of snow. From the helicopter, we saw signs of ice on the higher lakes. Our mood where back on top, as soon as we arrived at Rynda Camp. As always, the guys at Rynda gave us a warm welcome. They where supported by a couple of hundred caddis, swarming around the MI-8. It couldn`t be better.
Big Trout, Kharlovka
Temperature: 18-24 C, Water temperature 12-14 C.
It is always fun watching a group of trout nutters arriving on the tundra. The guys are fixing their tents, jumping into their waders, preparing rods & reels, all at the same time. Add the first tundra beer and you`ve got quite the display. However, there is always efficency involved! Who said that men can’t do more than one thing at a time?! After only 30 minutes we split into smaller groups and spread out up and down the river. Our goal: Explore the vicinity, and catch big trout. Unfortunately due to our late arrival (22.00), we didn’t get as far as we’d hoped to. Over the following week we learned that the fishing peaked during the warmer hours of the day and became very quiet at night.
Monday morning rain curtailed our fishing efforts and the pace slowed down somewhat. The rain lightened up around 11 am but by then we where already fishing. The sun drove the clouds away, and the thermometer shot up to a balmy 19 Deg Celsius. Some of us spent time exploring, looking for rising fish and signs of caddis and mayflies. Others chose different tactics. Up here, the caddis where as numerous as they were over at Rynda camp. Raymond covered water with a dead drifted Streaking Caddis pattern, and soon landed a 3,1kg fatty. A great start! In the rapids below camp, André discovered a small pool, soon to be known as Andrés Aquarium. In not more than two ours he caught five fish, the top three: 3,8kg - 3,3kg - 3,2kg. Four out of five on Pål Krogvolds "Dynamitt" streamer. Fantastic, even in Kharlovka. Trying to hold 65cm of pure trout muscle away from the white water took its toll. The mid section of his 7wt snapped while playing a good fish over 3 kilo’s. The following day André returned to his aquarium, and landed two more. This time: 3,8kg and 3,5kg!
Raymond and Jan found their secret spot too! In a small pool sheltered from the cold NE wind, they found several fish feeding on the surface. Armed with the superpupae, size 14’s, they managed to land a good number of fish, including several over 2 kilo’s and 2 great fish over 3 kgs.
Tuesday and Wednesday saw condition improve with little wind and lots of warm sunshine. Fishing in 24 C is hard. Thank God (to Peter Power) for the supply of Coca Cola and Efes Beer. An important part of the tundra experience is ignoring the clock, dropping your shoulders, and casting when you feel like it! (Which is pretty much most of the time really!)) Fishing the currents in the big pools from the boat seemed like a good bet in the cold conditions, especially with the higher than normal water. Some seriously big fish were lost and unfortunately we returned with a fish just under 2 kilos for our efforts.
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Tommy and Asbjørn had both been struggling for a few days. The last evening in Big Trout, they stated that sleeping can be done anytime, deciding to explore, while the rest of us headed for that land where Mayflies and caddis hatch by the thousand and huge trout are caught on every cast! Yes, we went to sleep! Lady luck was on their side and they returned triumphant having landed six fish from 04.00 to 06.30. Tommy catching four fish over 2kg, the biggest where 3 kilo’s on the dot. Asbjørn, being relatively new to flyfishing, was awarded the Kharlovka Rookie trophy for a fat 2.8 kilo beauty! Well done!
Swan Isles, Litza
Temperature: 14-22 C, Water temperature 13-14 C.
I had heard great things about this place, and the view from the helicopter took my breath away. This is surely one of the best looking places in the Trout Program. Litza is big down here. But small islands split the river into pools and currents, creating great habitat for trout and insects, and a wet dream for trout fishermen.
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Over the first evening, the water dripped 10cm. and it continued to drop for the remainder of our stay. The water temperature was also in our favour too! Obviously, things were about to happen. The first morning in Litza, I followed my usual tundra morning routine. A slow stroll down to the riverbank, a quick splash of water in the face, and a glance at the conditions. Wiping the cold water of my face, the first thing I saw was a Baetis Rhodani - a size 14 mayfly. Needless to say, even Tommy got out of his sleeping bag in a hurry!
The first hatch was sparse, but the following two days the intensity increased, and spinners started swarming. We were waiting for the first rise, but much to our surprise it never happened. Maybe the trout needed more time to realize that there were food on the surface? Or maybe the stoneflies were to blame? Huge (3 cm) stoneflies were all over the riverbank, and turning a rock in the river revealed four stoneflies for every mayfly nymph. We became despondent after the sight of dun after dun sailing down the tail of our homepool, facing only the threat of birds diving like Stuka bombers. Fortunately our streamers still did the trick!
I discovered that a black gurgler pattern could provoke the trout right up to the surface! The first fish who came for the gurgler was a deep 2,3kg cock. It came for my fly like a great white shark chasing a seal, and ripped 20 meters of line of my reel in the first run. Others tried the same pattern with success, and Jan got the same effect by stripping big Stimulators across the surface. Casting a woolly bugger caught fish too! In the rapids downstream from Swan Isles I landed my biggest tundra trout so far. 3,8kg and measuring 66cm. The whole experience certainly made me forget about Mayflies for a while!
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Out total catch this week was "only" 49 fish over 1kg. But 10 fish passed the 3kg mark, with 3 x 3,8kg at the top. Top flies were streamers such as Krogvold’s Dynamitt, Kola Killer, Woolly Bugger and the Gurgler. The superpupae did the trick when the fish were rising for caddis pupae. Summer came late this year. In fact, this is the latest spring since 1996. Many experienced anglers have fished the Kola rivers in week 26. In a normal year everything happens this week! Mayflies and caddis 24-7, and head & tailing fish in every pool. I recon week 26 will be different next year, and I must admit that a "rematch" is definitely on the cards!
Looking at the week’s numbers, I know we could have caught more fish. If we had spent more time casting streamers instead of waiting for rising fish, we might have doubled the numbers. But numbers is not what makes a week and should certainly not become anyones priority! The good company of the group, the relaxing tundran atmosphere and watching a river run by is just as important. Six Norwegians are certainly looking forward to coming back!
Thank you for a great week.
Erlend